The Fascinating History of Chanel No. 5

Chanel Biarritz livre Patricia 000

Over the Christmas break, I read Tilar J. Mazzeo’s engaging biography “The Secret of Chanel No. 5”. I am conducting research for my novel which includes a perfumer during the 1920s, so this book provided fantastic information about the industry and how Chanel No. 5 became a cultural icon of both the past and present. I wanted to share some of the fascinating facts I learned about this delectable perfume with all of you.

The heart of Coco Chanel’s style arises from her time spent at the orphanage called Aubazine in France, a Cistercian order which prized simplicity, cleanliness, and purity. The monks also used perfumes and ointments in prayers and rituals of purification. Although she was deeply unhappy there as a child, she carried it with her always because it was essentially her first home.

Aubazine sur les traces de Coco Chanel

Photo Courtesy of http://www.lefigaro.fr

Aubazine

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Jazzy Finds: Summer 2014

I decided to compile all of my great finds for the month for your perusing pleasure!  I included the pictures and the links (please let me know what you think if you check any of these out):

Salmagundi

Salmagundi http://salmagundiboston.com

Salmagundi, a better name would probably be “hat nirvana”, is a wonderful little shop in Jamaica Plain with a BIG selection of hats (about 12,000).  I spent a few pleasant hours in the shop – the shopkeepers were friendly and attentive, they served champagne, and their mission was simple: to find me the best hat to suit my tastes, face, and lifestyle.  I ended up choosing a straw cloche with a black and white gingham hat band; I have worn it twice, and received no less than 20 compliments on each of the occasions I have sported it.  Mission accomplished!

The Hot Sardines (from their website)

The Hot Sardines   http://hotsardines.com

I had the pleasure of hearing The Hot Sardines perform with The Boston Pops Orchestra, and I have been an avid fan ever since.  Not only do they play jazzy, New Orleans style music from the 20s, 30s, and 40s, but they also have their very own tap dancer to complement their music.  I purchased one of their CDs at the performance, but I am sure I will purchase more – they are available on their website.

Photo Courtesy of Emily's Vintage Visions

Photo Courtesy of Emily’s Vintage Visions

The Roaring Twenties Lawn Party at Castle Hill  http://tinyurl.com/km36v5j

This lawn party will take place on August 3rd at Castle Hill in Ipswich, MA, and I can’t wait to go!  There will be music, dancing, food, vintage vendors, and antique cars – this event is going to be beyond fun.  Did I mention how excited I am?

Photo from Bohemians: A Graphic History

Photo from Bohemians: A Graphic History

Bohemians: A Graphic History  http://tinyurl.com/pru5x3g

I purchased this book as soon as I saw it – who knew you could make a graphic novel about influential artists from the past?  I am about halfway through the book and I am impressed by what I have read and seen so far: stories about Walt Whitman, Oscar Wilde, and Josephine Baker among others.  My favorite excerpt has been about Oscar Wilde on a tour circuit; it seems that he helped to lay the ground work for author readings as we know them today with his discussions about the ideas presented in his books.  Maria Popova did a wonderful job of summarizing the content of this graphic novel, so please check out the link for more information.

Bessie Coleman: The First Black Fly Girl

Bessie Coleman

I took some time to watch “Amelia” today, the movie about the brave aviatrix Amelia Earhart.  It inspired me to look up information on another aviatrix who is not as well-known but who was no less brave, Bessie Coleman.  They both started flying around the same time, 1920-1921, but being black, Bessie did not receive the same level of recognition as Amelia.  Her story is just as inspiring –  here are some fast facts about Bessie:

  • The world’s first African-American pilot to receive an international license
  • One of thirteen children born to George and Susan Coleman on January 26, 1892 in Atlanta, Texas
  • Attended beauty school in Chicago and worked as a manicurist during the early years of World War I at a barber shop; this is where she started to hear stories about flying from pilots returning from the war
  • Always dreamed of flying; traveled abroad to attend aviation school in LeCrotoy, France in 1920 because no American school would accept African-Americans
  • After studying ten months in France, she was issued a license on June 15, 1921 by the Federation Aeronitique Internationale
  • Returned to the United States in 1921 with the intention of opening a flying school for blacks interested in aeronautics; during her trips she often gave lectures at colleges and churches to encourage young black men and women to enter aviation
  • Participated in many air shows and exhibitions from 1922-1925 to finance her flying career; her death-defying stunts earned her the nickname “Brave Bessie” and she became a barnstormer (pilots who roamed the country renting cow pastures where they put on shows flying low, zooming high above barns, and sometimes even flying through barns) for paying crowds
  • On April 30, 1926, she died during a test flight before a show sponsored by the Negro Welfare League in Jacksonville, Florida. About twelve minutes into the flight, the plane did not pull out of a nosedive as planned; instead, it did a somersault and dropped Bessie Coleman to her death.
  • Although her dream of establishing a flying school for black students never materialized, the Bessie Coleman Aero groups were organized after her death. On Labor Day, 1931, these flying clubs sponsored the first all black air show in America, which attracted 15,000 spectators. She also had a day named in her honor in Chicago and was featured on a commemorative stamp issued by U.S. Postal Service.
  • Famous Quotes: “The air is the only place free from prejudices.” “No one had ever heard of a black woman pilot in 1919. I refused to take no for an answer.”

Primary Resource: Doris L. Rich, Queen Bess: Daredevil Aviator (Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1993).

For more information on Bessie, check out this website: http://www.bessiecoleman.com/default.html

Bessie Coleman 1921

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Dandyism: It’s About More Than Style

I recently finished reading “I Am Dandy”, a singular and exquisite chronicle of modern-day men who dress as gentlemen and live exactly as they choose regardless of the prevailing “norms” of their culture.  One of the men interviewed in the book, Mr. Victor Allen Crawford III, summed up the concept beautifully:

“Contrary to conventional wisdom, the dandy is not merely a preening, vacant popinjay; for in truth, he is a preening, thoughtful popinjay.  Dandyism pertains to more than the wearing of clothes: it is a way of being, a philosophy.  The dandy’s attire is but an outer expression of his inner refinement – the delicate glass that holds a finely crafted wine.  The dandy is the focus of his own artistry; his dress, manner, speech, and mind are his palette.  Because of his strong desire to become what Oscar Wilde dubbed “a living work of art,” the dandy is a creature often compelled to seek communion with the exquisite, the inanimate, and the serene.”

In addition to thoughtful interviews with fascinating men, there are tons of immaculate photographs by Rose Callahan.  Rose also runs a blog called The Dandy Portraits which I subscribe to and I always look forward to her features.  The author of this work, Nathaniel “Natty” Adams is the first picture featured below.  Enjoy these pictures and make sure to check out the book and Rose’s blog.

Nathaniel Adams Continue reading